Ireland Is Everything People Say It Is (And Then Some)

I have been recommending Ireland to clients for two years. I have described the coastal roads, talked up the castle stays, and told anyone who would listen that the people there are some of the warmest you will find anywhere in the world. These Ireland travel tips are the result of finally going myself.

This past April, my sister Kris and I finally went ourselves.

And I have to be honest with you: I still was not prepared for how good it actually was.

We spent nine nights driving clockwise around the entire island, one night in each stop along the way. It was a deliberate research trip designed to let me experience as much of Ireland as possible so I could advise clients from firsthand knowledge. And somewhere along the way, it turned into something a whole lot more than that.

Everything in this post, all of the Ireland travel tips I am sharing, comes from real experience. Not a guidebook. Not someone else’s blog. The real thing.

Here is the full story, the mishaps included, plus everything I learned that I am now passing on to every client who puts Ireland on their list.

When Day One Does Not Go According to Plan

Let me start with the honest version of our first day in Dublin, because I think it is actually one of the most useful Ireland travel tips I can pass on.

We were running late to the Guinness Storehouse and ended up rushing through it rather than taking our time the way I had planned. Then we showed up to our Dublin city tour and they did not have our name on the list. Just like that, several of the Dublin must-sees were off the table for the day.

So we pivoted. We visited the Jameson Distillery, did some shopping, wandered around Dublin with no real agenda, and ended the night in the most charming little pub with a live band that was so good we stayed way longer than we had planned. Was it the day I had mapped out? No. Was it still a great first day in Ireland? Absolutely.

The good news is we circled back to Dublin at the very end of the trip and were able to do the city tour then. We actually ended up with a wonderful tour guide on the second attempt, and the Book of Kells and the Long Library at Trinity College were absolutely stunning. The guide made all the difference. Worth every bit of the wait.

What Day One Taught Me

One of my top Ireland travel tips: get up early and walk to Temple Bar before the city wakes up. The crowds had not arrived yet, the gift shop was empty, and we got beautiful photos without fighting for space. Temple Bar later in the day is a completely different experience. Get there early.

One thing we wished we had done differently: not slept in on our second Dublin day. We got a later start than we should have and missed a few things we had on our agenda. In a city like Dublin, an early morning is your best friend.

The lesson I took from the missed tour: always confirm your bookings 24 to 48 hours in advance. A quick email or phone call asking “we are confirmed for tomorrow, yes?” takes two minutes and can save you from exactly the situation we found ourselves in. As your travel advisor, this is something I always handle for my clients so they never have to think about it.

Ireland Travel Tips: The People Are the Best Part

I always heard that the Irish people are wonderful. I tell clients this regularly. And I was still not prepared for just how true it was.

Every single time we needed directions, had a question, or just made eye contact with a local, they stopped. They helped. They chatted. We never once felt like we were inconveniencing anyone by being tourists who did not know exactly where they were going. The warmth was genuine and immediate and it set the tone for the entire trip.

But it was not just the locals. The fellow travelers we met along the way were equally memorable.

The Connections You Make Along the Way

At Blarney Castle, while we were waiting in line to kiss the Blarney Stone, which both Kris and I ultimately chickened out on (I was convinced I was going to fall, and Kris got dizzy just looking at it), we got chatting with a young lady named Kylie from Colorado. She went through with it and we took her video for her. She was funny and easy to talk to, and we thought it was a nice little moment and that would be that.

The next day we were in Killarney, about two hours away from Blarney. There are probably 50 pubs in the Killarney area alone. We were sitting in the back of one having dinner when Kylie walked all the way to the back of that exact same pub and spotted us. We had not discussed any future plans when we met. It was a complete coincidence. Once we realized we would be in some of the same towns along our route, we planned to meet up and ended up seeing her two more times during the trip. It became one of those travel stories you could not make up if you tried.

“It became one of those travel stories you could not make up if you tried.”

The Strangers Who Become Part of the Story

That same night in Killarney, we ended up talking with two ladies from Georgia who were friends and neighbors traveling together. Both had lost their husbands, and one had a personal connection to Ireland because her late husband’s father was originally from there. Hearing them talk about the Irish pride in their roots was really moving. They also shared something I had not fully appreciated before the trip: how much history and feeling still surrounds the relationship between Ireland and Northern Ireland. The pride runs deep, and so does the complexity. I connected with them both on Facebook before we left the pub that night.

This is something I say to clients all the time and this trip reminded me of again: international travel creates connections that just do not happen the same way at home. When you are all in a foreign country experiencing something extraordinary together, the conversation comes easily and the walls come down fast.

Ireland Travel Tips: The Beauty is Not Something Photos Can Prepare You For

I have been to a lot of beautiful places. The Amalfi Coast. Scotland. Alaska. And I will say with complete sincerity that Ireland is probably one of the most naturally beautiful places I have ever been.

The green is real. You see it from the airplane window before you even land and it hits you differently than you expect. And then you get out into the countryside and it just keeps going. Every turn of the road brought something that made us slow down or pull over entirely.

🌿 “The green is real. You see it from the airplane window before you even land and it hits you differently than you expect.”

The charming towns were a highlight all on their own. Kinsale was adorable with its colorful painted buildings and harbor. Adare was one of the prettiest little villages I have ever driven through. Doolin and Donegal were both small and full of character. And every tiny town we passed through in between had its own color and personality. Ireland does not do dull towns.

All along the roads we saw sheep and cows dotting the hillsides and fields. After a while it becomes part of the landscape, and it is wonderful.

I want to be clear with anyone planning this trip: the photos you have seen of Ireland do not do it justice. You will not believe how beautiful it is until you are standing in it. That is not something I say lightly. And it is one of the Ireland travel tips I wish someone had told me more forcefully before I left.

Highlights From the Road

The Castle Stays: What to Actually Expect

If a castle stay is on your Ireland wish list, here is something worth knowing before you book: not every castle hotel means you are sleeping inside an actual castle. Both of our stays were wonderful, but they were very different experiences and I want to set honest expectations. This is one of the Ireland travel tips I wish I had been clearer on before we arrived.

Our first castle stay was Castlemartyr Resort in County Cork. I will be honest: I expected to be sleeping inside an actual castle. What we found instead was a gorgeous luxury hotel on stunning grounds, with the ruins of an old castle sitting right there on the property. Once I adjusted my expectation, I absolutely loved it. The grounds were beautiful, the interior was elegant, and the pampering started the moment we pulled into the parking lot. They even offered us a ride into the nearby town and came back to pick us up. That kind of genuine hospitality is hard to forget.

Our second castle stay was Clontarf Castle Hotel in Dublin, and this one is an actual castle. The common areas are in the original castle structure and they are stunning. The rooms are in a newer addition rather than the old castle itself, but the overall experience is beautiful. It was probably the prettiest interior of all the hotels we stayed in on the entire trip. Walking through the lobby and the common areas felt like stepping into something from another century.

The bottom line on castle stays in Ireland: do your research and read the descriptions carefully so you know what you are getting. Both types can be extraordinary experiences. They are just different. And both are worth booking.

The Lake Hotel Killarney

I also want to mention the Lake Hotel in Killarney because it deserves its own moment. The hotel is beautiful, but what made it special was our room. They put us in a suite that overlooked the lake, and the views were just stunning. It also had a jacuzzi tub, which after days of driving and walking was about as welcome as anything could be. If you stay at the Lake Hotel, request a lake view room. It is worth it.

Kilkenny and the Smithwick’s Distillery

One of the unexpected gems of the trip was the Smithwick’s Distillery tour in Kilkenny. We happened to be the only two people on the tour, so we essentially got a private experience for somewhere around 15 to 20 euros each. It was really well done and genuinely interesting. If you are passing through Kilkenny, do not skip it. Kilkenny itself is a beautifully preserved medieval city with a castle right in the center of it that is worth at least a few hours of your time.

Rock of Cashel at Magic Hour

The Rock of Cashel is one of those places that stops you. It rises out of the Tipperary plain on a limestone hill and you can see it for miles before you arrive. We got there later in the day than planned, which meant we were not able to tour the inside, and we decided to skip Hore Abbey nearby since we were running out of daylight. But we found a fenced-in area just below the Rock with sheep grazing between it and the abbey, and we got some of the best photos of the entire trip right there in the magic hour light. Sometimes the timing you did not plan turns out to be exactly the timing you would have chosen anyway.

The Gap of Dunloe

The Gap of Dunloe was one of the most spectacular things we experienced on the entire trip and also one of the most adventurous.

It is a dramatic mountain pass through Ireland’s highest mountain range. We did a horse-drawn jaunting car through most of it, which I would recommend with a few honest notes. We ended up sharing our cart with another couple we did not know, and our driver stood on the edge of the cart for the whole ride, which made for some cramped and a little awkward quarters. Our driver was a sweet kid, probably mid-twenties, but he did not talk much compared to some of the other drivers we could see entertaining their groups, which was a little disappointing.

It was also a very hot day and the horses kept overheating. They had to stop three times and we had to get out and walk for about 20 to 30 minutes each time up some pretty steep hills. So if you are planning this: it is not appropriate for anyone with physical limitations. The walking portions are real and the terrain is not flat.

That said, the scenery was absolutely stunning. Ancient lakes, mountains, stone walls, silence except for the water. I was glad we did it every step of the way.

The Boat Ride: The Perfect Ending

There is also an option to walk the full seven miles of the Gap on your own. I had considered it but was worried about finishing in time to make the boat ride at the end, so we did the cart instead. After the horse cart we had lunch and then boarded a boat for about an hour ride through the rivers. Our captain was hilarious and incredibly knowledgeable about the area. That boat ride was a perfect way to close out the full Gap of Dunloe experience.

Because we spent a full day in the Gap, we did not have enough time to do the complete Ring of Kerry the way I had originally planned. This is exactly why I now recommend two nights in Killarney for anyone who wants to do both without feeling rushed.

The Kerry Cliffs

Since we ran out of time for the full Ring of Kerry, we made sure to stop at the Kerry Cliffs on our way toward Dingle. We arrived about 45 minutes before closing, which turned out to be completely magical. There were fewer than a dozen other people there. No crowds. Just us and the cliffs and the Atlantic. Sometimes the unexpected version of something is better than the planned version. This was definitely one of those times.

Dingle

Dingle was probably one of our favorite towns on the entire trip. It sits right along the water and is just picturesque in every direction you look. The pubs were fantastic, the town had a really great energy, and the little stores were so charming. We had the best fish and chips of the entire trip right there in Dingle. If you are going to eat fish and chips in Ireland, eat them in Dingle.

Dingle is also the perfect base for the Slea Head Drive, which I will get to in the next section. The location alone puts it in a category of its own.

Northern Ireland: Dunluce Castle, Giant’s Causeway, and Carrick-a-Rede

The Causeway Coast in Northern Ireland was genuinely unlike anything else on the trip. We saw Dunluce Castle first, a dramatic ruin perched right on the edge of the cliffs above the sea. It is striking and absolutely worth a stop.

Then Giant’s Causeway. Forty thousand interlocking hexagonal basalt columns formed by ancient volcanic activity. They look so geometrically precise that the legend says a giant built them. Standing there, you almost believe it. It genuinely looked like something from another world.

Then Carrick-a-Rede Rope Bridge. One thing nobody mentions: it is a fairly long hike to get to the bridge. Not impossible, but it is not a short flat walk. Anyone with physical limitations should know that going in.

After we crossed the bridge, it started absolutely pouring rain. We got completely soaked. I had left my umbrella at the hotel, and I discovered mid-downpour that the zipper on my raincoat was broken. So I was drenched with no real options and Kris was not much better off. We were miserable and laughing about it at the same time, which is really the only appropriate response.

Bring your umbrella. Check your raincoat zipper before you leave home. Ireland will test you.

Ireland Travel Tips: Slea Head Drive and the Most Unexpected Highlight

The Slea Head Drive on the Dingle Peninsula is the most beautiful road we traveled on the entire trip, and we traveled a lot of beautiful roads.

It hugs the westernmost point of Europe with the Atlantic on one side and ancient stone beehive huts on the other. We stopped at Coumeenoole Beach, where Ryan’s Daughter was filmed, and just stood there for a while. Some places earn the pause.

But the highlight of Slea Head was something I had not planned at all. We got to pet, feed, and hold baby lambs. And we got to pet and feed alpacas.

I know that sounds like a small thing. It was not a small thing. The alpacas in particular were the sweetest animals I have encountered on any trip. They had this gentle, curious energy that just made you smile. Kris and I talked about them for the rest of the day.

Kris especially loved getting to hold one of the baby lambs that had been injured and bottle feed it. Watching her with that little lamb was one of those moments that makes you genuinely glad you said yes to the unplanned stop.

“Ireland keeps surprising you. Even when you think you know what to expect.”

Ireland Travel Tips: The Pub Music Is Everything

We had live music in the pubs multiple nights on this trip, and I cannot overstate how much it added to the experience.

There is something about sitting in a centuries-old stone pub with a pint in front of you and a fiddle player in the corner that makes you feel like you are exactly where you are supposed to be. It is not performative. It is just part of the culture. People of all ages sitting together, music filling the room, conversations happening around it.

We had one session in particular that I will remember for a long time. The band was so good that we stayed well past when we had planned to leave. No regrets.

If you are planning a trip to Ireland, do not skip the pub sessions. Do not just pop in for one drink and leave. Sit down. Order something. Stay a while. This is where Ireland reveals itself in the best way. And honestly, this might be my single favorite of all the Ireland travel tips in this blog.

“This is where Ireland reveals itself in the best way.”

Ireland Travel Tips: A Word About the Roads

Kris drove the entire trip, and I want to give her full credit for that because it was not easy. She was an absolute trooper from start to finish.

The roads in Ireland, particularly on the west coast and in rural areas, are narrow. Sometimes very narrow. Narrow enough that passing another car requires both drivers to slow down and ease past each other carefully. The hedgerows come right up to the edge of the road. The parking garages in the towns were a particular challenge because of how tight they are.

This is not a complaint. It is just honest Ireland travel tips for anyone planning to self-drive. Budget extra time for any scenic coastal route because you will be moving more slowly than a map suggests, and you will be stopping frequently because the views demand it.

If self-driving does not sound like your idea of a relaxing vacation, a guided format is absolutely worth considering for Ireland. You get all of the scenery without managing the navigation.

Ireland Travel Tips: My Honest Itinerary Advice for a First Trip

After doing the full clockwise loop, here is the single most important of all the Ireland travel tips I can give:

Do the south. Not both halves. Not the whole island. The south.

Kris and I moved quickly, one night in each location, because our goal was to experience as much of the island as possible and come home with firsthand knowledge of the whole country. That pace worked perfectly for a research trip. It is not the pace I would recommend for a first-time traveler who wants to actually sink into Ireland.

I will be honest: I already knew going in that most experts recommend against doing the whole island in one trip and strongly suggest staying at least two nights in each town. That advice is widely given. But there is a difference between knowing something and living it. Actually moving every single day drilled that recommendation home in a way that no amount of reading could have. I understand now, from the inside, exactly why they say it.

The north is spectacular. The Giant’s Causeway, Dunluce Castle, and Carrick-a-Rede are genuinely unforgettable and I am glad we went. But save those for a second trip. A first trip to Ireland belongs to the south.

“There is a difference between knowing something and living it.”

The Southern Ireland Itinerary I Now Recommend

• Dublin: 2 nights. Give the city the time it deserves. Get to Temple Bar early. Do not sleep in.
• Cork and Kinsale area: 2 nights. Blarney Castle, the city of Cork, and the charming harbor town of Kinsale.
• Killarney: 2 nights. You need both nights to do the Gap of Dunloe and the Ring of Kerry justice without feeling rushed.
• Dingle: 2 nights. The Slea Head Drive, the baby lambs, the best fish and chips you will ever eat.
• Doolin or a town near the Cliffs of Moher: 1 night. Stay close so you can see the cliffs before the crowds arrive.
• Galway: 2 nights. Great food, great music, great energy. A beautiful city with a character all its own.
• Back to Dublin: 1 night. A final night to close the loop and catch anything you missed.

That is twelve nights and it is the right pace. You will come home feeling like you truly experienced Ireland rather than just passed through it.

If you are thinking about combining Ireland with other European destinations on a longer trip, my guide to multi-city European travel planning walks through how to structure a multi-destination route without it feeling overwhelming.

Frequently Asked Questions About Traveling to Ireland

More Ireland Travel Tips and Common Questions

Ireland Travel Tips: Planning Your Southern Ireland Trip

What This Trip Means for the Clients I Work With

This trip started as research. I had planned Ireland for clients, described it with confidence, and believed everything I was telling them.”

I ended it as someone who has actually stood on the cliffs and felt the Atlantic wind. Someone who got completely soaked on the Causeway Coast because she forgot her umbrella and discovered mid-downpour that her raincoat zipper was broken. Someone who held a baby lamb on the western edge of Europe and fed alpacas on a coastal road that does not look real. And someone who ran into the same young lady three times in three different towns because Ireland is just that kind of place.

The Ireland travel tips I give my clients are different now. Not because the facts changed, but because I lived them. And that matters.

If Ireland has been on your list, I would love to help you plan it. I know this country now in a way I did not before, and I am genuinely excited to put that knowledge to work for you.

Ready to start planning? Schedule your complimentary consultation here and let’s talk about your Ireland trip.

“The Ireland travel tips I give my clients are different now. Not because the facts changed, but because I lived them.”

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